Two ranches in the Rupununi savannas, where cattle are still worked by cowboys riding barefoot in the stirrup, have opened their doors to visitors: Karanambu and Dadanawa.
Karanambu ranch
Karanambu has attained worldwide recognition for its rehabilitation of injured and orphaned giant river otters, led by the gracious and inspiring Diane McTurk.
Today's generation at Karanambu, Edward and Melanie McTurk, are accomplished naturalists and great hosts.
Otters are frequently seen in the wild, and the gallery forests of the Rupununi River which flows by Karanambu, are rich in birds and wildlife.
Behind them, the savanna is home to giant anteater, commonly seen by the guests.
Another Karanambu speciality is a late afternoon wildlife trip on the river ending on a quiet lagoon to watch the flowers of the giant Victoria Amazonica lily open as the sun is setting.
Dadanawa ranch
Beyond Lethem is Dadanawa, once the world's largest ranch and home to Duane and Sandy Defreitas.
These larger than life characters are modern-day pioneers. Sandy will tell you about major operations carried out on the kitchen table and how in a bad flood she rode for 3 days for supplies. Duane regularly makes expeditions into unknown territory.
You certainly do not come to Dadanawa for luxury. The place is badly in need of a lick of paint, there's no electricity, and you eat in a room that's about 100°C.
However, they do make a mean Dadanawa rum punch.