Iwokrama Field Station
At Iwokrama Field Station, on the banks of the Essequibo River, you stay alongside conservationists and biologists in thatched timber cabins with private bathrooms.
There are forest trails with good chances of seeing wildlife, with jaguar a speciality. 1 in 3 visitors see these awesome jungle predators at dusk or dawn on roads around the lodge.
Atta Rainforest Camp
At Atta Rainforest Camp, an hour further south, is the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, a series of suspended walkways and decks giving views into the mid and upper canopy of the forest-excellent for birdwatchers.
You can stay at the camp in hammocks, using shared facilities: a project established by the Macushi community at Surama, a short drive away.
Surama
Surama itself lies in an area of natural savanna ringed by forest-covered mountains.
Sydney, their gentle leader, is an inspirational man with the eco-tourism bug. The community has established a camp of simple wooden huts with private facilities for guests.
It is a base for night walks and daytime canoe floats on the river, with the chance of seeing giant river otter, tapir, and spider monkey.
Rock View Lodge
Continuing south is Rock View Lodge, the most comfortable place to stay in the interior.
There's an airstrip, a bus stop, and a welcoming swimming pool.
The lodge is the life's work of Colin Edwards, an Englishman who, with Sydney, has done much to bring eco-tourism to these parts.
His place is a delight, with many children running about, al fresco dining under a mango tree, good horses and a friendly tapir.