Exploring Eastern Venezuela

Endemics of the Lost World

Eastern Venezuela has to be one of the premier destinations for any birder. First, it is the best place to see the birds of the immense lowland forests of the Guianan shield, which extend across much of the area between the Amazon and the Orinoco, from Colombia, across southern Venezuela, Guyana, Suriname and French Guyana and the north of Brazil. Secondly, rising high above the forest here is the stunning surreal scenery of the Gran Sabana and its tepuis—flat topped mountains that are among the oldest landforms on earth, on the tallest of which Sir Arthur Conan Doyle set ‘The Lost World’. The summits and talus slopes of the tepuis are unique centres of endemicity and most have barely been explored at all, let alone by ornithologists. Thirdly, the region includes the whole of the massive delta of the Orinoco (the largest in the neotropics) and a range of associated wetland habitats. And fourthly, if it were needed, the beautiful Paria Peninsula provides us with the spectacle of Humboldt’s Cave and its population of over 10,000 echo-locating Oilbirds, plus attractive endemics of its own.

This trip includes all four of these world-class birding experiences, and a helicopter flight to Mt Roraima.

Venezuela has an avifauna that runs to nearly 1,400 species. It offers a large number of endemics, many of which are restricted to the south-eastern corner of this wonderful country.

This itinerary makes the most of this spectacular region and its superb birds. We spend time in well-birded locations in the lowland forest down on the Guianan shield, then ascend to the Gran Sabana via a very productive transitional zone. We cross the savanna by road, then take a helicopter to the foot of Mt Roraima itself—Conan Doyle’s Lost World. Here we explore the talus slopes at the elevations that are most productive of endemics, and may even have the chance to land on the summit. We retrace our steps and complete our survey of the lowland rain forest with a special focus on Harpy Eagle.

All this will take us a full two weeks. For those who can spare a third week, we continue northwards across the Orinoco to explore a great variety of habitats, including llanos and wetland, montane forest, cloud forest and arid desert, as well as Humboldt’s Cave.

Our time in the lowland rain forests of the Guianan shield should bring us a large number of rain forest species, most of which are more easily seen here than anywhere else: good examples being Guianan Toucanet, Marail Guan and Ferruginous-backed Antbird.

Top prize goes to the magnificent Harpy Eagle which we have a good chance of seeing. We should also see good numbers of curassows and parrots as well as trumpeters and macaws. Among many others, we will search for Pompadour Cotinga and Purple-breasted Cotinga, along with Caica and Red-fan Parrots—all in all there is a spectacular range of lowland forest species available to us.

The slopes leading up to the Gran Sabana plateau ascend through the sub-tropics and are particularly excellent for cotingas—a family that typifies the diversity and splendour of neotropical avifauna like no other. They are likely to provide some of the most spectacular favourites of our trip. We have an excellent opportunity to see both White and Bearded Bellbirds as they call from exposed perches. We should also be able to see the incomparable Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock at a known lek. The sight of a male flying through the forest like a bright orange fireball is memorable indeed. The bizarre Capuchin-bird also has a lek nearby and we are likely to spend a good deal of time watching these weird-looking birds call from their perches deep in the forest.

The Gran Sabana is a vast semi-natural grassland which is stunningly beautiful but not itself particularly rich in birdlife. During our time here we are treated to superb views of its magnificent tepuis. These ancient mesas of all sizes and shapes are mostly cloaked with dense forests around their base and on their intermediate ‘talus’ slopes, these and their rain-lashed summits are home to two thousand endemic plants and a number of birds that cannot be seen elsewhere. Our extended visit to the magnificent Mt Roraima makes our experience of this unique and spectacular region an even more exciting and rewarding one, as it enables us to reach the elevations where endemicity is most intense.

We hope for a nearly comprehensive list of the known tepui endemics. We have a good chance of seeing Tepui Wren and Great Eleania as well as a much better chance of seeing Greater Flowerpiercer, Roraiman Barbtail, Chapman’s Tyrannulet and Roraiman Flycatcher. Along the mountain’s hugely impressive sheer sandstone cliffs we may see Tepui Swifts along with swirling flocks of Tepui Parrotlets.

In the optional third week of the tour, normal service is resumed among a varied selection of classic neotropical habitats north of the Orinoco. Those who have not yet birded Venezuela’s llanos in Apure state will have a taste of the fabulous experiences that await them, and we should be able to pick up a good number of the same species while adding the regional endemics. Humboldt’s Cave provides the spectacle of 10,000 Oilbirds swarming out in swirling clouds at dusk.

Puerto Ordaz

Day 1 Flights can be chosen to arrive in Caracas in the afternoon in good time to connect with our short internal flight to Puerto Ordaz. Night Puerto Ordaz.

Sierra de Lema / La Escalera

Day 2 Today we drive a short distance to explore some dry deciduous woodlands—a very striking contrast to the humid forests we are about to experience. We then drive south to the rain forests of Las Claritas, our base for three nights. Night Las Claritas.

Days 3-4 From Las Claritas we are able to explore both the lowland rain forests of the Guianan Shield and the lower slopes of the Sierra de Lema which rise up to the Gran Sabana. This region has a great many specialities and it is these that we target. We will listen to the extraordinary song of the Capuchinbird, likened to a cross between a chainsaw and a bull. The area is generally great for birds and mixed flocks here contain an amazing variety of species. Exploring La Escalera’s lower slopes we should find Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock at their cliffside location near a lek. Nights Las Claritas.

Gran Sabana

Days 5-6 Continuing south we ascend La Escalera to Kamoiran in the Gran Sabana. Along the upper stretches of La Escalera we look for White and Bearded Bellbirds. We enjoy superb views of the tepuis rising above the rolling savannas. In stunted forests we will search for Rufous-breasted Sabrewing, Streak-backed Antshrike, Tepui Antpitta, Olive Manakin, Ruddy Tody-Flycatcher, Tepui Whitestart and Tepui Foliage-gleaner. In the numerous canopy flocks we should see Rufous-brown Solitaires, Fiery-shouldered Parakeet, Peacock Coquette, Tepui Spinetail, Roraiman Antwren, Scarlet-horned and Orange-bellied Manakins, and Black-hooded Thrush. Nights Kamoiran.

Day 7 Today after some early morning birding at the treeline we drive further south through the spectacular Gran Sabana making a number of stops. At dawn we hope to hear and possibly see Giant Snipe at a known site and Tepui Goldenthroat. We stop at the impressive Kamá Falls, by which we have seen White-chinned Swift and the localised Tepui Swift. In some nearby grasslands we hope to see the highly localised Bearded Tachuri. Night San Francisco de Yuruani

Mt Roraima

Day 8 This morning, weather permitting, we fly by helicopter to the base of Mt Roraima, the tallest of the tepuis. We land at about 1800m, which is a good 400m higher than the highest point on La Escalera, placing us in upper elevation temperate forest. While at this site over the next couple of days we are able to explore the forests around part of this magnificent mountain. We shall be looking for a number of endemics that are much harder to see on La Escalera, as well as enjoying the unrivalled scenery and endemic flora. We should see the Tepui Wren and Great Eleania along with Greater Flowerpiercer, Roraiman Barbtail, Roraiman Flycatcher and Chapman’s Bristle-Tyrant. Night in camp at base of Mt Roraima.

Day 9 We spend most of today birding on Roraima and, weather and time permitting, we should reach the summit. We continue to search for species restricted to the higher elevation forests, including Rose-collared Piha and Red-banded Fruiteater. Afternoon transfer by helicopter to San Fransisco de Yuruani.

Rio Grande—Imataca

Days 10-12 Today we retrace our steps north, this time to the lowland rain forests at Rio Grande at El Palmar. The forests here are selectively logged, but the avifauna is very rich, with many parrots, cotingas and raptors thriving. The principal attraction is the formidable Harpy Eagle and we have an excellent chance of seeing this elusive species with the help of local knowledge of the nesting trees. In addition we may also see Black Currassow feeding on the road in the morning. Yellow-throated and Waved Wood-peckers are common, as is Red-fan Parrots. The area is notable for the beautiful Pompadour Cotinga and the equally impressive Purple-breasted and Spangled Cotingas. Nights at El Palmar.

Day 13 This main section of the trip ends with some early morning birding on the very productive forest roads before returning to the city of Puerto Ordaz, where we bid farewell to those returning to Caracas for their international flights home overnight.

OPTIONAL EXTENSION
Llanos de Monagas

Leaving Puerto Ordaz we cross the Orinoco for a night at the Rancho San Andres in the heart of the Llanos de Monagas. We should arrive in plenty of time for some birding around the lodge, when we will probably see Crimson-hooded Manakin, Bicoloured Wren , White-bearded Flycatcher, Russet-throated Puffbird and a whole host of other species. Night Rancho San Andres.

(Those returning home have some time for birding around Puerto Ordaz before their flight back to Caracas to connect with their international flights. )

Caripe, Guacharo Cave and Cerro Negro

Day 14 After early morning birding around the ranch we drive to Caripe—famous for Humboldt’s Cave. In the afternoon we visit the massive cave system to see the Oilbirds roosting on their ledges. We return at dusk to witness the amazing spectacle as they exit the cave to feed. Night in Caripe.

Day 15 This morning we have the option of hiking up Cerro Negro to a tiny patch of montane forest for the endemic Grey-headed Warbler, Venezuelan Sylph, the rarely-seen Venezuelan Flowerpiercer and White-throated Barbtail. We should see good numbers of White-tailed Sabrewing and Rufous-shafted Woodstar. We may also come across Scaled Antpitta, Ochre-breasted Brush-Finch, Red-billed Parrot and Venezuelan Parakeet. (The Cerro Negro hike is steep and slippery, although the distance is not great it is tough. To attempt it you must be reasonably fit, nimble and well shod.) Night Finca Vuelta Larga.

Paria Peninsula NP—Cerro Humo

Day 16 Today we visit the beautiful forests of Cerro Humo in the Paria Peninsula National Park. We will take the whole day exploring the area and may see the enchanting Paria Whitestart and we should see the stunning Scissor-tailed Hummingbird. Fruiting trees attract Groove-billed Toucanets and Handsome Fruiteaters. Night Finca Vuelta Larga.

Day 17 This morning we bird by boat along the Cano Ajies, with the Rufous Crab Hawk as our special target. After lunch we then make the short journey to Carupano. Night Carupano.

Araya Peninsula

Day 18 Carúpano is our base for the Araya Peninsula. This arid area is dominated by acacia scrub and tall cacti with adjacent mangrove lined lagoons. In a large mangrove lined lagoon we may see Scarlet Ibises and Reddish Egrets while in nearby cactus scrub we should find Bare-eyed Pigeon, Buffy Hummingbirds and the fabulous Vermilion Cardinal. Our main target for the day, however, is the rare Yellow-shouldered Amazon, which is found here in small numbers. Night Carupano.

Day 19 After early morning birding we fly back to Caracas for international flights home.

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